OH THE PLACES WE SHOULD GO - A GREAT PLACE TO REST FROM ALL YOUR LABOR

VISITING GREENVILLE, SOUTH CAROLINA

(Writing and photography 
by Sheila Gail Landgraf)

Labor Day is upon us.  I can't believe it.  Football season has started and signs are everywhere that Fall is almost officially here!  It just happens to be my favorite season of the year, and I am always glad to stop on Labor Day and take a rest from my labors and ponder the exciting things around the corner.

What are you doing for Labor Day this year?  Will  you hit the road for a long weekend like most Americans?   We are not able to travel this year for many reasons, but don't you think for a moment that it did not cross my mind.  I know just where I would have been if things had worked out.   Don’t you wish you knew of a place not too far away, that is relaxing and yet full of fun things to do that are family oriented, interesting, not too crowded, a place full of fun things that will not break the budget?  Don’t shake your head and laugh….I happen to know just the place.
 
If you haven’t spent a long weekend in Greenville, South Carolina, you don’t know what you are missing!  It is one of those little-known miraculous towns that you find hiding all over the south.  There are some pretty wonderful places to stay in Greenville, all within walking distance of relaxing and entertaining things to do.  My first choice of a place to stay would be The Pettigru Place Bed and Breakfast at 302 Pettigru Street.  This historic place is lovely, well managed and known for their delicious gourmet breakfast.  It is a charming house with lovely English style gardens and five luxurious rooms.  This B And B is only a short walk from Main Street, where there are quaint little shops and over 60 unique restaurants and coffee shops to try.  You won’t want to spend all of your time shopping and dining though, there are also many local art venues, museums and galleries.  You are very close to the campuses of Furman, Bob Jones University and Clemson and they always have many entertaining events, especially during football season. 

My favorite place in Greenville is Falls Park.  You can walk there from Pettigru Place.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen a better designed city park.  You enter through a lovely fountain entrance, and you soon cross the beautifully designed Liberty suspension bridge.  From that vantage point, as well as many others in this park, you can view the river and take in the views of two gorgeous waterfalls.  There are luscious trails everywhere, loaded with beautiful foliage and flowers, statues and uniquely designed cozy little nooks.  Be sure to take in the amazing old tree with the deep, deep roots that you can actually see.  The tree has  obviously been growing here for a long time.  The roots of this tree will make you quote poetry!  

Take your camera with you; there are many photo ops in this park.  Spend some time getting your exercise winding through the quaint sidewalks with little cafes and shops here and there  and stop occasionally to enjoy the many places to rest and relax in nature.   Every turn has an unexpected surprise. You will be going under, over and around so many interesting cozy little areas.   

As I mentioned earlier, there is a nicely designed outdoor theatre, and if you are lucky you might catch people gathered to listen to music, or poetry or storytelling.   I could go on and on, but you must just go there and see for yourself – plan to spend at least four hours just in the park.  It is a great place for a picnic. 

If you are able to pull yourself away from the park, walk toward Main Street and gander through the great shops.  Be sure to hit The Mast General Store, with its old fashioned candy jars and wooden floors.  Wander through the cobblestone alley ways and see what you can spot!  There are a few very nice “retro” second-hand stores that are full of amazing treasures and finds.  There are several cute boutiques, and some of my favs were The Good Earth, and Imagine Boutique.  You can shop for hours in this part of town.

Stop and have lunch here too.  Almost every restaurant is special in its own way.  I highly recommend Sassafras Southern Bistro, Smoke On The Water, The Chicora Alley, and The Brick Street Café.  Sassafras is a great place, more formal during the week, but they serve a nice brunch buffet after church on Sundays.  Smoke on The Water is very tasty and you can eat outside if you want to as you feel the flavor of this interesting town while you wait for your delicious meal.  If you go to Chicora’s, the food is Caribbean style.  I love to order Mom’s Mexican Salad, and if you go to the Brick Street Café, make sure you get some peanut-butter and chocolate cake for dessert. 

After shopping and lunch you might want to take in one of the many art museums.  I loved The Art Bomb.  It is a unique, upbeat and personal gallery in the older section of Greenville.  The local artists that work there actually live in the area and are bringing it alive again.  The people you meet there are very informative and interesting and this place houses the studios of wonderful artist! Be sure to wonder through the sweet little secret garden at the back of the museum.    There is another little gallery right next to an underground coffee shop in the main section of town that is also interesting which features many local artists.  Just walking down the street is an artsy experience in itself.  There are musicians and statues and painted walls and sidewalk art everywhere. 

Right in the heart of downtown Greenville lives the Heritage Green.  This is an urban arts and cultural campus.  It is located on College Street, just past Academy Street, just three blocks from The Hyatt Regency Hotel.  If it is a rainy day, you might want to step into the Greenville County Library where you could get lost in all the wonderful books, DVD’s, music and CDs as well as use their free online resources.  There is a play center for preschoolers, and a café and a used book shop.  You can also explore the largest local history and genealogy collection among public libraries of the South. 

Another feature of The Heritage Green is The Greenville County Museum of Art.  This is a wonderful museum that will take you a few hours to tour.  It is full of American Art and has a lot of the works of Andrew Wyeth and Jasper Johns. 

The Heritage Green area also hosts The Greenville Little Theatre.  If you are looking for rich, evocatively staged and costumed classical theatre that includes drama, comedy and musicals, this is it.  They stage at least six shows a year from Shakespeare to Wilde to Cole Porter. 

Don’t miss another area found in The Heritage Green; The Bob Jones Museum and Gallery.  It features a select portion of more than 400 Old Master paintings and hundreds of pieces of furniture and decorative arts are regularly on display. 

It matters not whether you are a real-child or a grown-up child, Greenville’s Heritage Green section of town has a wonderful Children’s Museum that is entertaining for all members of the family.  It is one of the largest children’s museums in The United States. 

If you love history, you will love the Upcountry History Museum in this same area.  It is all about the history of Upcountry South Carolina.  There is a great practice of the oral history lesson here.  Storytellers in costume abound and fascinate you.  Historical programs are presented here throughout the year.

You will want to get back to your room to rest up a bit before the evening's events begin.  Maybe dress a little more formal for the night life here, but you don’t have to.  This is a casual, very family oriented place, but if you feel like dressing up – that is great too!  When I say  “family” that includes those four footed friends.  The streets of Greenville are a wonderful place to walk your dog while you are window shopping, so get that in before you take your rest and clean up for dinner.

Ah, dinner!  What a wonderful choice of gourmet restaurants all in one little town.  I’ll only mention three of my favorite more elegant places to dine at night, and I’ll let you discover the rest. First on my list is:  High Cotton.  Be sure you go at night and get a window seat to enjoy the scenic view of the lights of the city and the river at night.  High Cotton features fine Southern Cuisine.  My next choice would be Devereaux’s.   It is located in a restored historical building and has a great atmosphere with excellent food.  Trio – A Brick Oven Café is also a good choice. with its wood burning ovens and gas lanterns.  If you are just looking for a good place to have a drink, try The Park Avenue Pub. Two other favorite restaurants are The Bohemian Cafe for an upbeat "friendly neighborhood" experience "where the world meets at the end of your street;" and Fonda Rosalinda's, where fresh authentic Mexican food is served in an elegant home-style manner. 

For great evening entertainment, always check to see what is happening at The Peace Center, it is one of the best designed performing arts centers I’ve ever seen.  It has been called “an acoustic jewel” by many musicians.  It is located right in the Main Street area, and is breathtakingly beautiful at night, where you can see the city lights twinkling across the river from the glass fronted rooms.  This is a place full of masters.  Tony Bennett has played “Fly Me To The Moon” on this very stage. The style of entertainment here could be anywhere from classical to country to jazz to blues to Broadway to pop.  Entertainers and event schedules are listed under The Peace Center’s web site.  There is a huge variety of shows and performances presented in Greenville in the way of the performing arts.  The local theater group called Centre Stage, presents Broadway and Off Broadway plays, dramas and musicals. The Greenville Little Theatre, previously mentioned is another local community theater group.  If you love the symphony, you must hear the Greenville Symphony Orchestra.  There is also a wonderful selection of events from The Carolina Ballet Theatre, if you are partial to ballet.  The arts are all alive here!  You will not be disappointed.  You might want to visit the Warehouse Theatre, or go to Café and Then Some for a fun and entertaining dinner/theater experience. 

Are you tired after all this fun in just one day?  You will be comfy and pampered back in your room at The Pettigru Place.  I hope you caught their wine and cheese serving this afternoon.  If you need a midnight snack there are drinks in the old fashioned ice box, and the endless cookie jar is never empty.

If you have the budget for it, you might want to stay in a different location each day of your visit, just because there are so many good selections.  Sounds like a lot of packing and unpacking, but you might enjoy the experience offered from staying closer to The Peace Center too.  The Westin Poinset is a very luxurious and historic hotel.  It has all the Southern hospitality and signature comforts you could ask for in the perfect Main Street location.  The Westin Poinset is the only four-diamond hotel in Greenville.  It was constructed by W. L. Stoddard in 1925 and has a 1920’s elegance and charm about it.  There is a romantic piano bar and a work-out room.  The Westin is known for having “heavenly” beds.  The Spoonbread Restaurant offers American Cuisine and a great breakfast buffet. 

Also a good choice is The Marriott Courtyard in Downtown Greenville with its contemporary décor and modern architecture.  You can enjoy winter ice skating in the new rink here and there are bicycle rentals available year round.  Rick Erwin’s Seafood Nantucket Restaurant is located in this hotel and offers great food.   This hotel sponsors Greenville’s Signature Experiences Tours.  They have some amazing things to tell you about planning a long vacation in Greenville, and they know exactly what is happening when.  Well worth checking into, just for the package options available and the not so common suggestions. 

These hotels might be a little pricey, but think of the free experiences offered in this area.  Almost everything is free once you get here, except for meals and performances and a place to stay.  It just might budget out for you.  For example Falls Park is free, on Wednesday nights you can take in a free movie experience from Fidelity Investment’s Moonlight Movies.  Classic movies are shown in Falls Park under the stars.  It is perfectly fine to bring your lawn chair, blanket and a cooler.  At intermission lay back on your blanket and take in the show of the stars from the night sky.  Both events are absolutely free.  The window shopping is free.  The hiking trails and waterfalls are free.  The open markets and festivals are free.  Music on the streets is free. 

If you really enjoy this place, and who wouldn’t, you might want to plan to come back in October for the St. Francis Fall For Greenville event.  It is a world of tempting tastes, sights and sounds and aromas from one end of Main Street to the other. This is only one of many planned events held during the year. 

So what is another good place to stay?  Keep to the downtown Greenville area and enjoy The Hyatt Plaza for a night or two, it is a beautiful place right in the center of the city.  The really great thing about this, among many other wonderful things, is that you can walk right outside the door to experience the BB And T Main Street events.  These are the weekly music series on Main Street that continue for 28 weeks from March to September featuring jazz, blues, oldies, and soul music.  There are little tables right outside The Hyatt in front of a courtyard with a beautiful fountain where you can enjoy the concerts as well as your morning coffee and paper. 

There are always colorful sights and enchanting smells at the TD Saturday Market.   You will find the freshest farm produce, baked goods, meats, cheeses, seafood and other specialties.  They are all locally grown.  Have a gourmet cup of coffee; enjoy the live music and interactive events.  Learn about lifestyle tips at “It’s More Than A Market” which features a weekly educational chef demonstration. 

Tired of walking?  Take the trolley.  Downtown it is free, compliments of The Greenville Drive.  The city operates and maintains two trolleys.  They are a lot of fun to ride and very convenient.   

September is the beginning of the apple picking season in this part of the country.  Come enjoy the whole experience. Great orchards abound and are happy to see you.  Visit the famous ball park and see a great game, maybe you will even see the ghost of “Shoeless” Joe Jackson.  Go to the Greenville Zoo.  Experience the Chautauqua Festival that is a journey back in time where you can hear the story of the Civil War as told by those who were there.  History is alive here; how many times can I say that?  There are more than 500 historic sites marked and ready to be explored.  Visit Lake Conestee and have a natural outdoor experience.  Take a tour of waterfalls in the area, there are many! 

Follow The Swamp Rabbit’s Trail to Travelers Rest.  There are a million other trails too.
The Highlands are only a few hours away, but now that is another story.  Charleston is not too far away either, neither is Myrtle Beach.  You won’t want to leave Greenville though, save those destinations for another day.  There is enough to do here without all the driving.  Rest, play, relax, enjoy!

I think you get the idea, I’ve only given you the tip of the iceberg – you must go to Greenville, South Carolina and check out this wonder of the South.  Happy journey!