OH THE PLACES WE SHOULD GO – VISITING PART OF THE MUSICAL ROOTS OF THE SOUTH

TOURING MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE

(Writing and photography by Sheila Gail Landgraf)

I love Memphis!  

It is one of those strange, quirky southern cities with a great variety of things to do.  The whole city is full of history and lots of wonderful and exciting places to visit.  I love the mix of the old and the new, the traditional and the bazaar, the formal and the casual, the classic and the eclectic. 

A QUICK WORD AND A LITTLE REASSURANCE ABOUT SAFETY:

Almost every time I talk to a friend about visiting Memphis I get the same question:  “Is Memphis really a safe place to go?”  

Like most interesting cities, Memphis has those little places where you might not feel as safe as you would like, but overall for the intelligent person who knows what to do and what to avoid; you can stay safe if you use common sense.  Memphis felt like a safe place to me.   

I'm always amused to get this question from people who have loved visiting Washington D.C., New Orleans, Chicago and New York.  None of these cities have a reputation for being the safest places either; but people still love going there.  I felt safer in Memphis than some of those cities.

Like most famous cities; Memphis has known some violent moments in the past.  This is part of the history they are not proud of.  The fact that Martin Luther King, Jr. was shot in this city hasn’t done much to help its already tarnished reputation for not being such a safe place; but if you think about it, that was something that could have happened anywhere at any time.  Important people with highly influential messages for change usually live their lives in constant danger. Bravery is another characteristic that seems to go along with their mission, but it is also worth noting that places like Memphis are also where you might learn the most about some of these heroes. 

In Memphis you will hear some history of a lot of bad things; but you will also hear the history of MANY good things that have made our world a much better place.   Keep that in mind and just use good judgment as you travel into any areas that are unfamiliar.  Ask questions before you go.  Memphis does have many of the poorer sections of our nation tucked inside other areas; so you can probably expect a little pan-handling, especially in the Beale Street area.  Stay in the lighted, more populated areas and don’t be flashy or carry cash.  Some people are honestly just hungry, tired and broke. 

During our visit we were told the area west of the Airport between the Airport and Highway 61 was not a place where you needed to be walking around at night.  Most people chose to avoid this area after dark, just to be on the safe side.  However; that is the area where Graceland is, and a new resort is planned to open in that area soon.  This new resort (I'll fill you in when we talk about Graceland) is hopefully going to revitalize this area and make it much safer.  I’m sure this exquisite, modern, new resort area will be safe and secured.  This fact alone will bring lots of safety improvements to Memphis.  

 So; just use caution and have fun!  The main areas are perfectly safe and the good drastically out-weighs the bad.  I wouldn’t let fear keep me from this a great adventure and a lot of good entertainment.

One of the best vacations I can remember was a long ago escape we took to Memphis.  It was right after our “first-child-to-wed” celebrated her marriage with a beautiful wedding ceremony, after which my husband and I, totally exhausted from a whole year of wedding planning and activity, escaped town.  The trip became a well-received rest where we basked in total luxury at The Peabody Hotel.  I can’t think of a better place to be pampered!

This little trip to Memphis became such a wonderful culmination of a chain of very happy events.  With our daughter now happily married to the man of her dreams; we welcomed the chance to unwind, let down our hair a bit and get away from any crowds that required constant smiles and the exhausting experience of being “on” for 24/7.  So, especially if you are feeling like unwinding from hours of excitement overload, and you just want to be more casual and free for a bit, Memphis just might be the place of choice.

ENJOYING THE PEABODY HOTEL - 149 UNION AVENUE, MEMPHIS, TN. 38103 
(901) 529-4000.

The Peabody Hotel was definitely the perfect choice for our little get-away!  

What excellent luxury we found there!  

We had a room on the 9^th floor with a perfect view of the city lights.  It was so beautiful at night.  Everything was fresh and clean and soft and comfortable and delicious.  All the furnishings in this historic old hotel were modern with a contemporary/historical/traditional flare and all the little things we needed were very carefully attended.

The history of this old hotel is amazing.  I purchased a glossy photographic coffee table book from the hotel’s gift shop that was full of interesting and amusing tales of the history of the establishment.  This book, which I still possess among my treasured scrapbooks at home, is full of photos of famous guest who spent time inside this fabulous old hotel.  What a past!   As I lay my head on my exquisite feathered pillow every night I had to wonder what presidents and/or movie stars could have graced the very same room where I enjoyed my slumber.  

There is a golden mail box in the lobby of this hotel.  It is said to have been the method of post for many famous letters in its day (some of them were even from Elvis as he wrote letters to some of his closest friends.)   Many other singers, presidents, senators and actors have used this very same golden mailbox for many important reasons during their visits. We dropped the marriage certificate and all the official/legal paperwork for our daughter and new son-in-law inside this very same mailbox.   My husband was the minister who performed their wedding ceremony, so this was a very important part of his duties.  

I found it very amusing fun that we could make that post from this particular historic mailbox!  It was yet another happy sign that came forth on the way to the start of their “happily ever after.”  So I got to go home and inform them later that the same golden mailbox that posted their marriage papers to all the legal courts of the land was the very same place that had posted many other very historical letters to and from famous presidents, congressmen, movie stars and rock stars.  We thought using this mailbox was a great way to mark some of our newest family history too!

The golden mail box was just the beginning of all the exciting things during our stay.  Every morning at 11 a.m. and every afternoon at 5 p.m. we beheld the world famous Duck March inside the lobby of the hotel. This was a very traditional, historical and exciting part of the history of Memphis.  Each day, twice a day, a group of very pampered ducks (they live in the Penthouse on the top floor) descend from the top of the hotel and walking over the red carpeted hallways, they make their way into the fountain area of the Peabody Lobby. There they spend their days playing in the beautiful fountain of The Peabody Lobby, much to the delight and admiration of all the Peabody’s pampered guest.

This one hundred year old tradition started when a long ago manager of the Peabody returned from an unsuccessful hunting trip and placed a bunch of live ducks in the hotel’s lobby fountain as a joke. Much to his surprise, the guests loved the ducks being in the lobby!  It quickly became a tradition that continued. 

Now every day these ducks arrive and depart with great pomp and circumstance.  Red carpet is rolled out as they depart from the elevator and a Duckmaster leads them and places down a red stairway from which they climb into the lovely lobby fountain to swim.  All the while the audience is standing by watching with delight while they are hearing the music of The King Cotton March that is played in honor of this daily event.  It is a sight to behold! People come from miles around just to watch the ducks march toward and swim within the lobby fountain!

We enjoyed the novelty of the ducks very much.  However; ducks are not the only attraction this hotel has to offer!

There is a whole grand shopping experience within the compound of the hotel.  You don’t even need a car.  Just step outside your room and take the elevator downstairs and walk through the lovely halls until you reach the stores.  Browse through all the luxurious shops that you could ever wish to find.  There are also five-star restaurants around every corner.  Bring your appetite; you will not be disappointed in the Memphis cuisine.

ENJOYING THE MUSICAL HISTORY OF MEMPHIS:

THE BEALE STREET HISTORIC DISTRICT:

Memphis is also known for being the home of great musical talent.  So many stars have begun their careers right on the famous Beale Street, right in the very heart of Memphis.  This little 1.8 mile stretch that runs from the Mississippi River to East Street is one of the most iconic streets in America.  This is “the street where the blues were born.”  It was true of Memphis history, and it is still happening today.  This street is alive with local talent, and you can enjoy the many open-air concerts being performed on just about every street corner.  

The local bars and restaurants of this part of town all boast of the best up-and-coming musical performers.  Little pubs have open air entertainers singing as you eat and drink in their friendly establishments.

One famous pub we stopped into was Silky O’ Sullivan’s. There we sat in an outdoor patio area and listened to a man belting out tunes and playing the guitar as we sipped on a tall cold beverage. 

The cement sidewalk in the quaint outdoor court area was inscribed with the names of famous celebrities that had been there in the past. Nothing is “ordinary” here on Beale Street.  Be prepared to see just about anything!  The most unusual thing we saw was goats inside the bar!   Yes – there was a goat tower that had climbing goats living within its walls.  You could walk right up to them and pet them and feed them if you wanted to do so.  We left the goats in peace and just sat outside while we enjoyed the music and the atmosphere of the blues section of the city.  First stop in Memphis should always be Beale Street!  It has to be the main attraction.  Experience it first.

GRACELAND; 3717 ELVIS PRESLEY BLVD, MEMPHIS, TN.  38116  (901) 332-3322:

Graceland was the home of Elvis Presley, the famous King of Rock N’ Roll  and it is located in Memphis.  This has been a favorite and very popular tourist spot for many, many years and Elvis fans have flocked here in droves for a long, long time just to see and experience the daily home life of this man, and to have the unique opportunity of walking where his feet have trod.

Now there is a new and exciting addition to the Graceland experience.  A brand new $45 million, 200,000 s.f. entertainment complex called “Elvis Presley’s Memphis” is opening in March of 2017.

This complex contains a world-class AAA Four Diamond resort where you can stay at a place called “The Guesthouse At Graceland”   This hotel has 430 spacious and luxurious rooms.  20 of these rooms have special themes.  Even the toiletries contain a collection of Elvis-inspired bottles.  They offer shuttle service to downtown Memphis and Beale Street.  You may find out more by visiting www.graceland.com or calling 800-238-2000 for reservations for the grand opening. This will be a HUGE happening in Memphis.

Tours of Graceland are still a part of the package, but you will now be given a much more comprehensive view of the overall life of Elvis Presley.  There is a new 464 seat theatre and concert hall that will be offering live entertainment as well as replays of some of Elvis’s former concerts.  There are new museum exhibits with artifacts that have never been seen before.  There is a new automotive museum that displays Elvis’s love for cars and high tech items.  There are two full-service restaurants and lots of meeting spaces for weddings and special events.  This grand new venue offers a whole new way to experience the Magic of Memphis. 

SUN STUDIOS, 706 UNION AVENUE, MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE:

Sun Studios is the original building that housed the recording studio opened by Sam Philips, who recorded the music of Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash,  Roy Orbison, Jerry Lee Lewis and B.B. King, just to name a few.  Sam Philips was said to be the pioneer of Rock N Roll music.  You can tour the studio and learn all about that history while in Memphis.

STAX MUSEUM OF AMERICAN SOUL MUSIC; 926 EAST MCLEMORE AVENUE, MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE (901) 21-6338.

The Stax Museum of American Soul Music is a museum located in the former location of Stax Records.  Adjacent to this museum is the Stax Music Academy.   Both venues are operated by Soulsville, USA.  

This awesome gathering of artifacts has millions of stories to tell and all of them contain talent, hustle and soul.  All of the different time periods of great African-American music are historically remembered here.  The stories of the unique and humble beginnings of this record production company which originally had no racial problems or boundaries are wonderful.  The history that evolved in this one little studio in Memphis reflects a lot of the cultural history and changes throughout all of America, but it is served up with an original Memphis flavor.

  

The stories are told of how a festival for the 7^th anniversary of the Watts Rebellion in Los Angeles sent acts organized and produced by STAX to the heights of the soul music market.  The Watts Rebellion was said to be the “Afro-American” version of Woodstock.  These festivals were well attended and with the fame and marketing of these acts; STAX received great notice and success in the soul music arena.  They had come a long way from their humble beginnings. 

As the story of STAX begins, Jim Stewart, who was inspired by Sam Phillips founded Satellite Records.  In the early 1960’s Satellite became STAX.  They moved into an old movie theater where Jim and his sister Estelle remodeled the theater themselves, converting it into a music studio.  

Estelle’s last name was Axton, and STAX was the combination of the first two letters of both Jim and Estelle’s last names.

 

Estelle turned the concession stands of the theater into a popular record shop.  It was there, spinning records for all of her friends in the neighborhood that she developed a certain discriminating taste for how records are sold.   She created a flow of cash and people by operating the record shop, and Stewart managed productions from the studio.  Their personalities and the combination of their energies got something that would have seemed almost impossible off to a wonderful and amazing start.  These two people with virtually no music credentials built this company from the ground up in some pretty amazing circumstances.

 

Eventually because of a famous act that recorded at STAX, a company named Atlantic took over the distribution part of STAX.  This made things easier for their labels to get out into the stores. 

In 1962 Otis Redding was working as a chauffeur for Johnny Jenkins and the Pinetoppers.  One of Johnny Jenkins’ sessions went south, and while they were discussing the situation Ottis Redding was allowed to sing in the studio just for fun.  The whole room suddenly fell silent as they heard his voice.  That was how Otis Redding got his start.  The rest is history, and it is told well here. 

 

There are a million other wonderful little bits of musical history inside this museum. It is a must see if you come to Memphis. 

ENJOYING SOME FAMOUS MEMPHIS CUISINE: 

Memphis is famous for BBQ and soul food. If you are looking to have a wonderful breakfast you might check out Brother Juniper’s.  This is Rachel Ray’s favorite place to eat breakfast in Memphis.  It is located in East Memphis.  If you go – try the San Diegan; it will not disappoint!

Lunch places abound in Memphis.  We had to try out Corky’s BBQ because my Aunt Opal made us promise not to miss it.  Thank you Aunt Opal; we know exactly why you love Corky’s so much now.  So glad we found it.  The food was wonderful and that creamy mac and cheese was to die for!  Corky’s isn’t the only great place for BBQ though.  

There are so many good BBQ restaurants in Memphis, and they all have their own special sauce flavors and each one of them has added their own personal twists to their menus.  Another favorite BBQ place is called Central BBQ.  It was wonderful too.  Be sure to try the BBQ Nachos if you go there.  They also make their own potato chips in-house from scratch. 

We also enjoyed visiting Hay and Hominy for Southern Comfort food with an Italian twist.  The Grits Alforno are highly recommended! 

We loved Alcenia’s too.  There, in the Pinch District of Downtown, we found a place for real soul food.  We got a hug from B.J. too, and we drank Gheto-Aid while we were waiting on our food to arrive. 

Rizzo’s Diner is another great lunch stop.  Rizzo's has some great comfort food choices and it is located in the South Main Arts District. 

When we went to the Stax Museum of American Soul Music we ate at Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken.  So good!  Get the “Four Way” meal and you will leave completely satisfied.  REAL soul food.  This restaurant is known for being the one that Martin Luther King, Jr. preferred to bring people for a bite to eat while they discussed important civil rights issues. 

There are two Soul Fish restaurants in different sections of Memphis.  They serve Southern comfort foods also.  I would call them authentic meat and threes.  Don’t forget to try the cornbread sticks.  The Cupboard is another meat and three with a huge selection of delicious side dishes, and Dejavu is a made-to-order authentic fare restaurant that is a great stop for a perfect lunch.   Another lunch restaurant you might want to try is Felicia Suzanne’s.  Chef Felicia Willett features her own versions of down-home, yet light and classy cuisine.  A must get item on her menu is the BLFGT salad.

Chef Kelly English owns two restaurants in Memphis which sit side-by-side; one is for serving the lunch crowd and it has authentic New Orleans style po-boys, cheese grits and wonderful cocktails.  All of this wonderful lunch-time food is tucked inside a cozy renovated little house called Second Line.  He also owns one other restaurant which is located right beside Second Line which houses evening dinners and feeds a much more formal, high-end, romantic-dinner type of crowd.  I’ve heard it is quite the evening dining experience, and this wonderful restaurant is called Restaurant Iris.  Put it on your "must do" list for Memphis.

If you are looking for more other romantic dinner restaurants, some very fine dining would include:  Erling Jensen (Downtown – French), Flight (Downtown – American Wine Bar),  Restaurant Iris (Midtown – Cajun Seafood, as mentioned above), and  Chez Philippe (French/Traditional restaurant located at The Peabody.)  If you don’t go for dinner at Chez Philippe (which you SHOULD,) then at least go for high tea, because I’ve heard that is an excellent dining experience that you will not soon forget, and well worth the extra cost.

If you are simply looking for a great snack to tide you over until your next meal; go to Muddy’s Bake Shop and order the Prozac cupcake.  The name speaks for itself.  Or go to Gibson’s Donuts.  They are open 24/7 for those who are craving during all hours.  I highly recommend the maple bacon donut. 

Memphis is famous for its breweries and bars.  Of note in the brewery category is The Wiseacre Taproom.  They serve crisp refreshing beers made right on-site.  Most of the locals like the Tiny Bomb American Pilsner as a first choice brew.  I’ve already told you about a few bars located on Beale Street, but be sure to stop inside B.B. King’s for dinner one night. You will always remember it.

Did I mention The Capriccio Grille? It is yet another famous restaurant inside The Peabody Hotel.  It is among the most excellent of choices for fine dining experiences.  There is more good food than I can discuss here – just go!

LOCAL MEMPHIS AMUSEMENTS:

AUTOZONE PARK:  One of the first things I noticed from my window at The Peabody was the Autozone Park’s Scoreboard.  I just happen to love red birds,  (not the baseball players but the real birds with actual feathers that fly through the air and build nests in your front yard; so their logo appealed to me immediately, and the sight of that billboard from every place in Memphis somehow gave me great comfort. 

The Memphis Red Birds have certainly built a nice nest in the middle of their Memphis yard.  This is, of course, the minor league baseball park in Memphis.  It is the home of the Memphis Redbirds of the Pacific Coast League.  They are now known as the affiliates of the St. Louis Cardinals.  The stadium has also hosted games for The University of Memphis.

Although the Cardinals now own the Red Birds, the Red Birds were actually non-profit for a long time.  Now the Cardinals own the Red Birds, and the city of Memphis owns the stadium.  It would be a fun place to watch a baseball game and watching the Red Birds play is a favorite Memphis pass-time.  They recently purchased new uniforms that reflect their cultural history; with a flashy neon sign on their shirts representing Beale Street.  They will also be sporting a big neon “M” on their shirts which is formed in the shape of musical notes to honor the blues which were born in this city. 

THE MEMPHIS ZOO:  2000 Prentiss Place, Memphis, Tennessee  38112.

This zoo is located in the Midtown District of Memphis.  It is a great zoo! There are 18 special exhibit areas with over 70 acres of land housing approximately 3,500 animals representing over 500 species. 

Memphis is one of three zoos that house the Giant Panda from China.  It is worth going just to get to see the Pandas.  The Pandas live in an area where they are surrounded by authentic Chinese gardens and architecture.  It is a place of great beauty and serenity. 

This zoo seems to be located right in the middle of Overton Park where there are lots of other interesting places to explore after your trek to the world of animals.  Overton Park is a quaint little area that is surrounded by some of the most beautiful homes in Memphis.  Overton Square has some great little restaurants to try out -  whenever you get tired of the animal kingdom and want to rest for a spell while you satisfy your appetite.

THE PYRAMID:  When you first drive through Memphis you will find yourself asking “what is that building shaped like a pyramid?”  It is such an odd building to find in the south!  Then you learn later that originally it was an artist’s concept of the pyramids of Memphis, Egypt from which Memphis got its name.  The original plans incorporated options for two more pyramids; but the other two never materialized.   

The whole huge structure was originally designed to be a sports arena and has a history of housing some pretty interesting sporting events over the years, but pretty early on the project met upon hard times, and the development was much later bought out by Bass Pro-Shops who moved in not only their megastore, but other shopping, a hotel, some restaurants, a bowling alley, a gun range and an archery range.

 At the top of the structure’s apex is an observation deck.  You can get to the observation deck by taking one of the tallest freestanding elevators in America. 

I’m still disappointed that they didn’t’ turn this into condos; but it seems that Bass Pro Shops has finally made a go of it and things are coming alive now for the pyramid. 

Memphis has plowed some tax money into this venture hoping to revitalize the Pinch District which is the neighborhood to the east of the pyramid. 

The amazing thing about the Bass Pro Shop is that it houses over 600,000 gallons of water features and the largest collection of water fowl and hunting related equipment in the world. Strange as it all sounds; it would seem that this building has finally found its purpose in Memphis as one million people visited the area within only a four month period of time right after it opened its doors again in 2015. 

So now you know….

I may have forgotten to mention that a horse-drawn carriage ride is one of the best ways to tour Memphis.  They are all over town, just keep your eyes open and hop in.   There is also a convenient old fashioned trolley that runs up and down the riverside near Beale Street.   

SHELBY FARMS PARK: 6903 GREAT VIEW DRIVE NORTH, MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE  38120  (901) 222-7275:   A not so well known but fun place to go is The Shelby Farms Park.  Shelby County of Memphis, Tennessee has a 4,500 acre green space that encompasses 10.65 miles of urban trails and a large reclaimed and restored lake called Hyde Lake. 

This has become a community gathering place for events and family reunions and is great for families just wanting to have some fun in the sun.  There is a large water park/playground for the kids (4,000 s.f. of water fun including a water tunnel, sprays and geysers with boulders.)  There is a nice welcoming center to help you find your way around and give you information on “get-outside” programs or to advise you on the different event spaces you can rent for weddings and family reunions.  There are, lots of picnic places and benches and trails and wooded areas to hike, ride bikes or go horseback riding.  There is a community gardening and teaching area for educating people on growing food and good nutrition, and a really unique restaurant called "The Kitchen."  Make your reservations ahead if you go to The Kitchen; and be sure to ask their story because it is very interesting.  The whole place was designed around the concept of a dinner in your kitchen at home.    At the lake there is a nice boat house where you can rent canoes, kayaks and paddle boats.  You can also fish.  This is one of the largest urban parks in the United States with something for everyone in your group to enjoy.

THE NATIONAL CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM: 450 MULBERRY STREET, MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE  (901) 521-9699:  This museum, with the entrance located at the former Lorraine Motel, which is the place where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated, is on a mission to share the culture and lessons from the American Civil Rights Movement and explore ways to continue to shape equality and freedom globally.  They have both stationary and traveling exibits, both from the museum and from outside authors and photographers from all over the earth that are focused on the civl rights of humanity.  An example would be the work of John Noltner the award winning photographer and author who drove 40,000 miles across America asking people one simple question:  "What does Peace mean to you?"  He put their answers and their photos in a documentary story called "A Peace Of My Mind."   His focus is on the commman humanity that connects us all.  Another guest exhibit features the work and photography of Lisa Kristine called ENSLAVED.  This exhibit documents the front line of slavery around the world.  She will be housing her exbibit at this museum through March 6, 2017.  

Aside from main focus on civil rights, there is also some musical history as you tour the Lorraine Motel.  Did you think you would escape that in Memphis?  Not possible!  From 1950 through 1960 - many famous musicians stayed at this hotel as they did work for STAX Records.  Among the many names are Ray Charles, Lionel Harrison, Aretha Franklin, Ethel Waters, Otis Redding, The Staple Singers, Wilson Pickett and many others.

THE GIBSON GUITAR FACTORY 145 GEORGE W. LEE AVENUE, MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE 38103 (901) 544-7998:  Why not take a tour of Gibson's Memphis Guitar Facotry while you are in Memphis?   In this unique factory Gibson's skilled Luthiers craft some of the finest guitars in the world and you can watch and hear how it happens.   Who knows, you might just find the guitar that you need to take home with you!  

THE MEMPHIS BROOKS MUSEUM OF ART:  1934 POPLAR AVENUE, MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE  (991) 544-6200:  Founded in 1916 The Brooks Museum of Art is the oldest and largest art museum in Tennessee.  They house a large collection of European and American Art, including sculptures and paintings from the 18th - 20th century.  They also have some great traveling exhibits.  One they recently featured was the Amanda Parer's "Intrude" exhibit of five giant rabbits that have been touring the world.  The museum is located in Overton park in Midtown and has The Brush Restaurant and Holly Court Gardens for stolling into Overton Park.  

All of the above are only parts of the best of Memphis.  You must go for yourself and discover some of these things and much, much more all on your own!  Have fun!